Routes

We have 23 bolts in so far.  So far the route is about 5.12b. But the individual moves are between 5.10 and easy 5.11. It makes a great endurance workout for a 5.13 climber and a good project for a 5.12 climber and a great training route for 5.10-5.11 climbers. There are no real stopper moves.

The route starts at 45 degrees overhung and finishes at 75 degrees (15 degrees from horizontal)

Perma draws are on all the bolts.

bolting2-300x200

Construction is just beginning on new routes during the summer of 2015. Routes will have glues in bolts for lead climbing. Handholds are bolted onto the being installed using dropin sleeves so standard gym climbing holds can be changed over time. There is potential for climbing on 8 of the 12 arches. Grades will be posted here.

Each route will be about 100 to 130 feet in length and about 60 feet tall. The start of the routes are 45 degrees overhung and gradually transition to horizontal. Due to the extreme steepness, routes are more difficult in the 5.11 to 5.14 range. Endurance is the main factor. Routes are designed for lead climbing.

With limited numbers of climbs, we will be faced with lines. The practice of a couple climbers hogging a route and running laps on it will not work here. Each climber must take their turn and then get back in line. If there are 10 climbers you will have to wait for the other 9 climbers before it is your turn to climb.

That being said there is a certain etiquette for the length of time on a route, which depends on who is waiting to climb. If the area is empty you can have long dogging session. But if there are people cued up, then take a quick burn and let others climb. The steepness of the climb will tire you out quickly.

Do not clip in direct and rest for 5 – 10 minutes if there are a bunch of people waiting. If you need that much time on a route, you might be in over your head. If the limited routes are crowded, consider donating money so we can build more routes.

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